Anubis by Papillon Perfumery is a mysterious and addictive perfume that evokes images of Ancient Egypt – mummification, precious artefacts and rich incense. The fragrance opens with an intense suede note, one which is animalistic, yet luxurious. The suede combined with the unique floral earthiness of pink lotus, heady frankincense and bittersweet saffron make for an initial impression which is smooth, dark and enchanting.
As the potent suede note fades, Egyptian jasmine begins to infuse the heavy incense accords with a touch of delicate and refined sweetness. The resulting impression is slightly smoky and oriental with undercurrents of floral freshness and sensuality from the pink lotus and jasmine. As the two florals combine with the aromatic notes of saffron and frankincense, Anubis loses some of the heaviness of its original impression and takes on a brighter, slightly herbaceous nuance. After a few hours of wear, the scent evokes the smoky, jammy spice of a good red wine, giving the fragrance an unctuous and delectable character which softens the dark intensity of the opening notes.
In the base, immortelle and benzoin contribute a submissive sweetness that complements the headier notes perfectly. Whilst rich and aromatic in the top, the saffron and frankincense are tamed and refined, resulting in a softer impression. The sophisticated syrupiness of the immortelle and the creaminess of the benzoin add a delicate and welcome intimacy to the composition, whilst intensifying its carnal luxuriousness.
With its mysterious smokiness, dark sensuality and intimate sillage, Anubis is undoubtedly a fragrance for the evening. Its creaminess and refined sweet smokiness evoke the old school glamour of the 1950s – its dark and delectable femininity make it the perfect perfume for a red lipstick-wearing temptress smoking a Sobranie and drinking Bollinger. It smells expensive; in fact when we first smelled it we were reminded of the luxury of Shalimar and Chanel No. 5. Anubis is a perfume which recalls the classic and expertly imbues it with a complex and deathly edge.